Alsace: The Region Between Two Worlds

Alsace: The Region Between Two Worlds

Alsace occupies a narrow strip of land between the Vosges Mountains and the Rhine River — a geography that has, for most of the last two centuries, also meant occupying a space between two countries. France and Germany have exchanged this territory four times since 1870. The vineyards have remained.

 

 

That history matters to the wine. It explains the tall, tapered green bottles. The German grape names on French labels. The fact that Riesling — the great noble grape of the Rhine — grows here in its most austere, mineral, and precise form anywhere in France. Alsace is a region that has been claimed by two traditions and has, in the process, built something entirely its own.

 

This week, we are spending time with Alsace. Not memorizing it — understanding it. The history, the landscape, the grapes, and the dry Riesling that is both the region's most serious wine and, for our purposes, one of the finest food wines in the world.

 

The Geography

Alsace runs north to south for roughly 170 kilometers along the eastern edge of France, averaging only a few kilometers wide. The Vosges Mountains to the west are the key geographic fact: they block Atlantic rain systems, making Alsace one of the driest wine regions in France. Colmar, near the heart of the region, receives less annual rainfall than almost any French wine city. The sun shines here. The grapes ripen fully.

Map of France with the area of Alsace highlighted in the Northeast section of the hexagram shaped map.

The Rhine forms the eastern border, and across it is Germany's Baden wine region — where many of the same grape varieties grow in similar soils. The terroir across the two sides of the river is, in some respects, continuous. The wines are not. Alsace makes its whites dry, aromatic, and long. The German tradition, historically, has favored more residual sugar. That distinction — and the complications the Alsace label system introduces — is exactly what we examine on Tuesday.

Close-up map of Alsace from Strasburg in the North, Colmar in the center and Mulhouse to the South.

The soils of Alsace are among the most geologically diverse in any wine region: granite, limestone, sandstone, clay, volcanic rock, and schist all appear across different vineyard sites. This diversity is part of why Alsace rewards attention. The same grape — Riesling in particular — tastes noticeably different grown on granite versus limestone versus volcanic soil.

 

The History, In Brief

The vineyards of Alsace have been cultivated since at least Roman times. The region prospered through the medieval period as a source of wine for trade along the Rhine. The trouble began in 1870, when Prussia annexed Alsace-Lorraine following the Franco-Prussian War. Alsace became German. Its wine industry, previously oriented toward France, reoriented toward the German domestic market, which at the time favored high-volume, lower-quality production. The fine wine tradition suffered.

After the First World War, Alsace returned to France. After the Second World War, it returned again, having spent the war years under German occupation once more. What emerged in the post-war decades was a wine culture in active reconstruction — winemakers consciously building an identity that was neither simply French nor simply German, but Alsatian.

 

The AOC system arrived in 1962. Grand Cru classification — 51 individual vineyard sites — was formalized in 1983. These are the wines that carry specific terroir character, and they are worth seeking out once you understand the regional style.

 

The Grapes

Alsace is almost entirely white wine country. The four noble varieties are Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Muscat. Sylvaner and Pinot Blanc are workhorses — approachable, lighter, often excellent value. Pinot Noir is the one red, producing a pale, elegant wine.

 

Riesling is the benchmark. It is the most planted noble variety and the grape that best expresses the region's terroir — high acidity, pronounced minerality, aromas of citrus, stone fruit, and in aged examples, the distinctive petroleum note that signals mature Alsatian Riesling. It is also the variety with the widest range of sweetness levels — from bone-dry to intensely sweet — which is both the source of its complexity and the source of the label confusion we address on Tuesday.

 

Gewürztraminer is the most recognisable — heady, floral, lychee and rose petal, unmistakable. It is often the wine that introduces people to Alsace, though it is not always the best representation of what the region does at its most serious. At its best, dry Gewürztraminer is extraordinary; at its worst, the residual sugar tips into something cloying.

 

Pinot Gris sits between Riesling and Gewürztraminer in weight — richer and spicier than Riesling, more structured and less floral than Gewürztraminer. It pairs particularly well with food and is often the most versatile of the three at the dinner table.

 

Muscat in Alsace is typically made dry and is, when done well, a remarkable aperitif wine — grapey, floral, fresh. It is less common than the others and worth seeking out.

 

What to Expect in the Glass

Alsatian whites are typically fuller-bodied than you might expect from a cool-climate region. The dry growing season and long hang time produce wines with intensity and concentration. They are fermented in large, neutral oak foudres — traditional oval barrels that impart no oak flavor but do allow slow, gentle oxidation. The result is wines that are aromatic and rich without oak influence.

 

They age. Dry Alsatian Riesling from a good producer and a good vintage can develop for ten to twenty years, acquiring the smoky, mineral, complex character that makes old Alsatian Riesling one of wine's great underappreciated experiences.

 

They are food wines. The combination of body, acidity, and aromatic intensity makes Alsatian whites natural companions for the region's cuisine — and for food far beyond it. Coq au Riesling is the most direct expression of this: the wine goes into the pot, and the same wine returns to the table.

 

How to Buy Alsatian Wine

The label will show the grape variety — not the appellation. This is unlike most French wine labeling, where the appellation tells you the grape by implication. In Alsace, the grape is named directly, which makes buying straightforward: you see Riesling, you know what you're getting. The complexity lies in reading the sweetness level, which is where Tuesday's post comes in.

 

Entry ($15–25): Village-level Alsace from a reliable producer or cooperative. Often excellent value, particularly for Pinot Blanc and Riesling. Approachable and food-friendly.

 

Mid-range ($25–45): Single-producer Alsace from a recognized name — Trimbach, Hugel, Zind-Humbrecht, Domaine Weinbach, a good Alsatian Riesling producer. This is where the regional character becomes clear and the grape varieties speak properly.

 

Our lead bottle this week: a dry Alsatian Riesling. This is a benchmark entry-point for Alsatian Riesling — dry, precise, with the mineral clarity and stone-fruit character that define the style. It is also the wine in the Coq au Riesling.

 

Grand Cru ($40–80+): Vineyard-designated wines with the highest classification. Worth exploring once you know the style.

 

This Week

Tuesday brings two posts: how to read an Alsace label and stop guessing whether the wine is dry — and a focused look at dry Riesling. Thursday is Coq au Riesling: the dish that teaches you the region by cooking with it.

 

The wine in this dish is the same wine at the table. That continuity is part of the lesson.

 

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Provence — The Region That Decided What Rosé Should Be

Provence — The Region That Decided What Rosé Should Be

Somewhere in the last twenty years, rosé became misunderstood in two opposite directions simultaneously.

On one side: the pink, sweet, slightly embarrassing bottle at the back of the shelf — the wine people reach for when they don't quite know what they want. On the other: the pale, Instagram-perfect Provençal bottle in a frozen bucket at a summer rooftop, status object more than wine.

 

Provence rosé is neither of these things. It is one of the most food-versatile, terroir-expressive wine styles produced anywhere in the world, built on a tradition of serious winemaking that predates most of the wine regions Americans are more familiar with. The Greeks brought vines to this part of southern France around 600 BC. The Romans developed viticulture here. The wine has been made in this landscape — the limestone hills, the garrigue, the Mediterranean coast — for longer than most wine regions have existed.

 

What Provence decided, and what the rest of the world has been trying to replicate ever since, is that rosé should be dry, pale, and precise. Not sweet. Not heavily fruited. Not a diluted red wine or a coloured white. Something with its own identity, its own food logic, its own terroir.

 

The Region

Provence sits in the southeast of France, running from the Rhône delta east toward the Italian border, with the Mediterranean coast to the south. It is the largest rosé-producing region in the world — roughly 90% of its output is pink — and it is the benchmark against which every other dry rosé is measured. Provence is represented below in brown.

Map of French Wine Regions. French Wine Region Map.

French Wine Regions Map

The landscape is recognizable even to people who have never been there: limestone hills covered in pine and garrigue, ancient hilltop villages, the blue of the Mediterranean on clear days. The climate is intensely Mediterranean — hot, dry summers with a reliable mistral wind that keeps the vines healthy and the humidity low. This climate suits rosé production precisely: good acidity even in hot years, aromatic freshness, and the mineral quality that the limestone soils contribute.

 

The Appellations

Côtes de Provence is the largest and most widely distributed appellation — the one you are most likely to find at your local shop, and the one that offers the widest range of styles and prices. Within it, a handful of cru designations (Sainte-Victoire, La Londe, Fréjus) signal wines with specific terroir character and, generally, higher quality.

 

Bandol is Provence's most prestigious appellation for rosé — rich, structured, with more depth and aging potential than a typical Côtes de Provence. Mourvèdre dominates the blends here, even in the rosé, which gives the wines a weight and savouriness unusual for the style. Bandol rosé can improve over five to eight years.

 

Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence and Les Baux-de-Provence are smaller appellations producing serious rosés from slightly different terrain — more limestone, slightly cooler at elevation, often a more mineral and structured style.

 

What Makes Provençal Rosé Distinctive

The color is the first signal. Genuine Provençal rosé is pale — often described as onion skin or copper-pink, sometimes barely pink at all. This is not accidental and not purely aesthetic. The paleness comes from minimal skin contact during production: the red grapes are pressed gently, the juice spends very little time on the skins before fermentation, and the result is a wine that carries the structure and acidity of a white wine with just enough red grape character to be something else entirely.

 

In the glass: delicate red fruit — strawberry, watermelon, sometimes raspberry. Floral notes. Herbal and garrigue character from the landscape. And underneath it all, a saline mineral quality that is the terroir of the limestone and the proximity of the sea. This mineral-saline element is what makes Provençal rosé so food-compatible — it functions like acidity in white wine, cutting through richness and refreshing the palate between bites.

 

It is also, notably, dry. This is worth saying clearly because the assumption that rosé is sweet persists. A properly made Provençal rosé has residual sugar at or near zero. The fruit you taste is the grape, not added sweetness.

 

How to Buy It

The pale color is a useful starting signal at the shop. A deeply pink or coral rosé may still be good wine, but it is a different style — likely more fruit-forward and less mineral. For the Provençal experience, look for the palest bottles on the shelf.

 

Drink it young. Rosé is not a wine to cellar, with the exception of Bandol. Most Provençal rosé is best within eighteen months to two years of harvest. Look for the most recent vintage available.

 

Entry ($15–22): Côtes de Provence from a reliable producer or cooperative — excellent quality-to-price ratio, the everyday rosé.

 

Mid-range ($22–40): Single-estate Côtes de Provence or a cru designation — more terroir specificity, more mineral precision, often worth the step up.

 

Premium ($40+): Bandol rosé from a benchmark producer, or a prestige cuvée from a recognised Côtes de Provence estate. These reward attention and food.

 

Tuesday: two posts — Provence rosé as a wine style in depth, and Cinsault, the underknown grape that is one of its essential building blocks.

Thursday: shrimp tacos. The pairing nobody expects and immediately understands.

 

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Châteauneuf-du-Pape — The Appellation, the Place, and Four Days There

Châteauneuf-du-Pape — The Appellation, the Place, and Four Days There

The soil at Châteauneuf-du-Pape looks like it belongs at the bottom of a river.

Large, smooth, pale stones — galets roulés — cover the ground so completely that you cannot see earth beneath them. They were deposited by the Rhône glacier roughly twenty million years ago, and they have stayed precisely where the water left them. Walking through a CdP vineyard is a specific kind of disorienting: the ground is neither soil nor stone but something between, something that shifts slightly underfoot and absorbs the afternoon sun all day before releasing it slowly through the night.

The landscape around Châteauneuf-du-Pape is unlike anything I'd prepared myself for. Rolling hills blanketed in the most extraordinary soil I've ever encountered — I'd studied it in textbooks and articles for years, but standing in the middle of it is something else entirely. You look around and wonder how anything survives here, let alone thrives.

But that's exactly the point.

The best wine rarely comes from rich, dark, forgiving earth. It comes from places that make the vine work — stretch, dig deep, fight for every drop of moisture. Stress, it turns out, is a feature, not a flaw. What challenges the vine almost always makes the better wine.

 

We arrived in Châteauneuf-du-Pape on a Thursday afternoon in November, after a morning in Tavel and Lirac tasting through cooperative rosés and structured reds. The village is small — a few hundred residents — but it carries the particular gravity of places that have been important for a very long time.

 

The History That Made the Wine

The name means, literally, "new castle of the Pope." In the fourteenth century, when the papacy relocated from Rome to Avignon for nearly seventy years, the papal court sat just south of here — and the popes took an active interest in the vineyards on the hill above the Rhône plain. The ruined tower that remains above the village is what is left of the summer residence they built. The rest was demolished by the Wars of Religion and, later, by an eighteenth-century earthquake.

View of Papal summer Castle from the streets of the CdP village

From the top of those ruins, on a clear November afternoon, the view covers most of what matters in the Southern Rhône: the river to the west, the plain stretching south toward Avignon, the Dentelles de Montmirail on the eastern horizon, and vines in every direction rooted in those pale stones.

 

We hiked up from the village, arriving at the Papal Ruins on a sharply crisp November afternoon. The views stopped us cold. From the steps alone, vineyards stretched in every direction — and from the top, a full 360 degrees of the Rhône Valley opened up, all the way out to the river itself.

The ruins are largely a free-standing wall now, but the scale still commands attention. Standing there, you find yourself imagining the opulence of the 14th century papal court — the grandeur, the excess, the sheer ambition of it. And then you realize that for 700 years, travelers, pilgrims, winemakers, and wanderers have stood on that exact same ground, looking out at that same river, asking the same quiet questions.

 

Some places carry their history lightly. This one wears it like stone.

 

The Appellation and Its Rules

Châteauneuf-du-Pape was among the first French wine appellations to be formally defined — in 1936, when Baron Le Roy of Château Fortia helped establish the rules that would become the template for the French AOC system. Those rules remain among the most specific in the wine world.

 

Thirteen grape varieties are permitted in the blend — though in practice, most wines are predominantly Grenache (often 70–80%), with Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, and others playing supporting roles. The minimum alcohol level is set at 12.5%, though most wines exceed 14% or 15%. Mechanized harvesting is prohibited; everything is done by hand. A minimum of 5% of each harvest must be discarded — a quality standard built into law.

 

The result is wines of remarkable concentration and warmth. CdP reds are not subtle. They are generous, complex, long-finishing, and built for serious food — and for patience. The best examples continue developing for fifteen or twenty years in the bottle.

 

The Village and the Tasting

The village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape has one main street that runs through the historic core, lined with producer boutiques. We stopped at Domaine du Pégau — a traditional producer known for deep, classic CdP blends, their village boutique open on Thursday afternoons in winter.

The village roads are narrow, cobblestone, and unapologetically single-lane. You navigate them with a mix of confidence and blind faith — not entirely sure you're allowed to be there, not entirely sure you'll find your way back out. But that disorientation is part of the charm, because somewhere in the middle of it you realize you're moving through a place that hasn't fundamentally changed in centuries.

It's easy to imagine life here several hundred years ago — walking to the village well, exchanging news with neighbors, living quietly and beautifully within these same stone walls. What's remarkable is that you don't have to imagine it too hard. Despite the tasting rooms and rented apartments that now dot the area, the village hasn't become a performance of itself. Young families still gather at the local park. Locals still greet each other by name in the pubs and restaurants.

This is not a museum village, frozen and curated for visitors. It's a living place — one that has absorbed centuries of change and kept going anyway.

 

The Range of the Appellation

CdP is not a single style. The variation across producers and winemaking philosophies is wide enough that two bottles from the same vintage can read almost like different wines. Traditional producers — Rayas, Pégau, Henri Bonneau — make wines of extraordinary depth and austerity, sometimes requiring a decade to open. More modern producers use varying degrees of new oak and extraction to produce wines that are approachable earlier but no less serious.

The galets roulés do not cover the entire appellation uniformly. There are sand and clay soils in some areas, limestone in others. These differences produce different wines even within the same appellation, which is why understanding CdP requires more than one bottle.

 

Where to Start

Entry ($25–45): Côtes du Rhône Villages — wines from the broader appellation that sit just outside the CdP boundary. Reliably good, excellent value.

 

Mid-range ($45–75): Châteauneuf-du-Pape from a solid producer — full appellation character, ready at 5–8 years.

 

Premium ($75–150+): Traditional CdP from a benchmark estate — Grenache-dominant, structured, built for time.

 

Tuesday: Grenache the grape — what it actually does, and why it defines this region. And a second post on decoding the CdP label and understanding the range.

Thursday: Lamb gyros — the Mediterranean pairing that lands exactly where the wine lives.

 

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The Northern Rhône — Where Syrah Works Alone

The Northern Rhône — Where Syrah Works Alone

We left Châteauneuf-du-Pape early on a Friday morning in November — cold, clear, the sun still low over the plain. The drive north took nearly two hours. By the time we reached Tain-l'Hermitage, the light had settled into that particular winter quality the Rhône does: pale, direct, casting long shadows across the terraced hillside that rises steeply above the town.

View from driving North on the highway from CdP to Tain l'Hermitage

The hill of Hermitage is not subtle. It faces due south, which is everything in a northern climate, and it rises sharply enough from the riverbank that standing at the base you can see immediately why the vines here have been farmed by hand for centuries. There is no other way. The slope will not accommodate machinery. Every vine, every harvest, every intervention is a person making a decision on a hillside above the Rhône.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ntLDwYUSEGU

 

This is the Northern Rhône. And it is a fundamentally different experience from the Southern Rhône we explored last week.

 

North and South: The Same River, Different Wines

The contrast between the two Rhônes is one of the most instructive comparisons in wine. Both regions carry the same name. Both grow Syrah — though the South uses it as a supporting grape in blends, while the North builds everything around it. The wines taste almost like they come from different countries.

Wine Map of the Rhone Valley France

What changes is geology and climate. The Northern Rhône is granite — ancient, fractured, mineral. The vineyards are narrow, terraced, and steep. The continental influence is stronger here; winters are colder, summers hotter but with cool nights. Syrah must work harder to ripen, and the result is a wine of greater precision and restraint than anything produced in the warmer, wider South.

Last week's GSM blends were generous, approachable, warm. Northern Rhône Syrah is none of those things, at least when it is young. It is mineral, structured, sometimes austere. It is a wine that asks for time — and rewards the patience.

 

The Appellations

The Northern Rhône runs roughly from Vienne in the north to Valence in the south — a narrow corridor of river and hillside about 70 kilometers long. Within it, several appellations define the range.

Map displaying the primary wine regions within the Northern Rhone

Hermitage is the prestige benchmark — 136 hectares on that south-facing granite hill above Tain. The wines produced here are among France's most age-worthy reds: concentrated, structured, mineral, capable of developing over 20 to 30 years. They are not inexpensive, and they are not for drinking young. They are for understanding what Syrah can become.

Crozes-Hermitage is the accessible neighbor — a larger appellation surrounding Hermitage with more varied soils and a wider range of styles. Here you can find Northern Rhône Syrah at a fraction of Hermitage's prices, and the best producers make wines of genuine character.

Cornas, just south, is Syrah in its most powerful, least compromising form. No white grapes blended in (as is occasionally done in Côte-Rôtie). No concession to approachability. Cornas is Syrah stripped back — dark, tannic, demanding. The wines from Clape and other top producers are as good as anything in the appellation.

Côte-Rôtie, in the north, is the most aromatic Northern Rhône appellation — occasionally blended with a small percentage of Viognier, which lifts the perfume without softening the structure. Floral, complex, and among the most elegant expressions of Syrah in the world.

Saint-Joseph runs along both banks of the river and offers good entry-level Northern Rhône Syrah — more approachable, more affordable, and reliable from the right producers.

 

What Makes Northern Rhône Syrah Distinctive

Granite is the story. This ancient rock imparts a mineral character — something clean and stony, almost iron-edged — that you do not find in Syrah grown on clay or alluvial soils. It also drains exceptionally well, which stresses the vines and concentrates the fruit without overripening.

 

The result in the glass: dark fruit (blackberry, black olive, black plum), black pepper — the signature Syrah note — and beneath it all, a savoury quality that some describe as smoked meat or cured meat, and that others call simply mineral. The tannins are firm. The acidity is present. These are not soft wines. They are wines built for the table — specifically for food with enough presence to meet them.

 

Which brings us to Thursday's pairing. A peppercorn-crusted ribeye is not a subtle choice. But it is exactly right.

 

Where to Start — Wines at Every Level

Entry ($20–35): Saint-Joseph Rouge or Crozes-Hermitage from a reliable producer. Approachable Northern Rhône character; ready to drink with 2–5 years.

 

Mid-range ($35–60): Better Crozes-Hermitage or entry Cornas. Real depth, more structure, worth 5–10 years of patience.

 

Premium ($60–100+): Hermitage or top-end Cornas. Benchmark wines — educational investments as much as dinner bottles.

 

This week's challenge: Find a Saint-Joseph or Crozes-Hermitage. Taste it alongside a piece of red meat or a plate of aged cheese. Notice the black pepper. Notice the mineral edge. Notice how different it feels from last week's Côtes du Rhône.

 

That contrast is the education.

 

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Tuesday: Syrah the grape — what it is, where it comes from, and why Australia calls it something different.

Thursday: Peppercorn ribeye — the pairing that makes complete sense once you know what the wine is doing.

 

Mâcon: Where Chardonnay Becomes Generous

Mâcon: Where Chardonnay Becomes Generous

Last week: Chablis. Cool, mineral, unoaked, austere. The kind of wine that asks something of you before it gives anything back.

 

This week: Mâcon. The other end of the White Burgundy conversation.

map of Burgundy wine regions - with all five subregions

Mâcon sits in the southernmost white wine district of Burgundy, where the climate is warmer, the growing season longer, and Chardonnay — the same grape, grown less than two hours south of Chablis by car — produces wines of an entirely different character. Generous. Round. Accessible. Immediately welcoming in a way that Chablis is not designed to be.

This contrast is the Chardonnay education. Not one wine, not one style, but a grape capable of expressing almost the full range of what white wine can do — depending on where it is grown, how warm the climate, what the soil holds, and what the winemaker decides to do or not do in the cellar.

Mâcon is where you begin to understand that range without spending a great deal of money. And that is one of the most useful things about it.

 

The Mâcon Appellation Hierarchy

Mâcon operates on a tiered system that is worth understanding before you shop, because the label tells you a great deal about what's in the bottle.

 

Mâcon AOP. The broadest designation. Grapes from across the Mâconnais district. Honest, approachable, light to medium-bodied Chardonnay. Ready to drink immediately. The everyday wine of southern Burgundy. Expect $12–18.

 

Mâcon-Villages AOP. A step up in quality — grapes from one of 27 designated villages known to produce superior wine. The label may simply say 'Mâcon-Villages' or may name the specific village: Mâcon-Lugny, Mâcon-Prissé, Mâcon-Uchizy. More character, more texture, still excellent value. Expect $15–25.

Mâcon + Village Name. When a producer is proud enough of a specific village to name it, that confidence is usually earned. These wines show genuine terroir character and are worth seeking out. Same price range as Mâcon-Villages but often a notch more interesting.

 

Pouilly-Fuissé AOP. The prestige appellation of the Mâconnais. Four villages — Fuissé, Solutré-Pouilly, Vergisson, Chaintré — produce wines of genuine complexity and age-worthiness from some of the most dramatic limestone escarpments in Burgundy. Promoted to its own appellation status in 1936, it received its first Premier Cru classification in 2020. Expect $25–50 for good examples; Premier Cru $45–80.

Saint-Véran AOP. Pouilly-Fuissé's accessible neighbour. Similar limestone terroir, similar style, fraction of the price. One of the best value propositions in all of White Burgundy. $18–30.

 

What Mâcon Tastes Like

Where Chablis is restrained and mineral, Mâcon is generous and fruit-forward. The warmer climate produces riper Chardonnay — stone fruit (peach, nectarine), ripe apple, sometimes a hint of melon — with rounder acidity and a softer, more immediately welcoming texture.

 

Most Mâcon is made without oak, or with very light oak contact, which keeps the wines fresh and clean. At the Pouilly-Fuissé level, some producers use older oak barrels for fermentation or ageing, adding a subtle creaminess and texture without overwhelming the fruit. This is not the butter-and-vanilla California Chardonnay style — it is Burgundian restraint applied to a warmer, riper expression of the grape.

 

The limestone soils of Pouilly-Fuissé and Saint-Véran add a mineral thread that grounds the riper fruit — a reminder that you are still in Burgundy, still in terroir-conscious territory, even if the wine tastes nothing like Chablis.

 

 

A Brief Word on the Côte de Beaune

Mâcon is the accessible, generous face of White Burgundy. To complete the picture, there is a third expression worth naming: the Côte de Beaune, where White Burgundy reaches its most prestigious and complex form.

Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, and Chassagne-Montrachet are the three great white wine villages of the Côte de Beaune. Their Premier Cru and Grand Cru wines — Meursault Perrières, Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles, Bâtard-Montrachet — are among the most studied and most expensive white wines in the world. They are Chardonnay grown on limestone and clay slopes of extraordinary precision, often aged in French oak, and capable of evolving in bottle for ten to twenty years.

This is not an everyday wine. It is a destination — the pinnacle of what the grape can achieve in this region. But knowing it exists, and knowing where it sits in relation to Mâcon and Chablis, gives you the complete White Burgundy map. You now have all three points on the compass: the mineral austerity of the north, the generous accessibility of the south, and the prestigious complexity of the Côte d'Or in between.

Thursday: Mâcon with spring fish — a pairing that suits the season and the wine's generous, round character. See you then.

 

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